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Extraction Vs. Prosperity, What Are Humans For?, and How To Help Save The Great Migration

In case you didn’t see my previous post, Angelo Coppola, of the excellent weekly “Latest In Paleo” podcast, has just put up Episode 12 of his podcast, featuring…me! Click here for the show.

The Last Of Wild Africa

Most of us in the West think of Africa as one big National Geographic special, full of leaping gazelles, lumbering elephants, wallowing hippos, roaring lions, stalking leopards, and a few picturesque tribesmen with spears.

The red part is desert, and the orange part is the arid Sahel. And there are 800 million people in the regions south of it.

No. Much of Africa is the Sahara desert, and Sub-Saharan Africa—the part we see on television—has a population of 800 million people, growing at 2.3 percent a year, and projected to grow to 1.5 billion by 2050.

Just like everywhere else, significant wildlife only survives in the few remaining protected areas, and is slowly dying outside it due to population pressure: poaching and habitat loss.

To give you an idea of how little is left, consider this: you could put every lion, every cheetah, every wild dog, AND every spotted hyena in the world in the average football stadium—

—and they’d each have their own seat.

That’s about 23,000 lions, 7,000 cheetahs, 4,000 African wild dogs, and 37,000 hyenas. Yes, the entire living population of the iconic African predators is less than the population of one medium-sized town, and falling.

800,000,000 humans and growing, versus perhaps 70,000 other predators—and less every year. Wildlife simply cannot survive outside protected areas in the long run…and even there, poachers kill as much as they can get away with.

What Are Humans For, Anyway?

The African savanna is what shaped us from little rainforest-dwelling monkeys into Homo sapiens. It is our hands and our brains, our blood and our bones. Everything humans are today is because of the millions of years we spent on the African savanna, which we only left perhaps 60,000 years ago…a blink in evolutionary time.

That is why we find the African savanna so beautiful and so compelling—because surviving on the savanna is, quite literally, what humans are for. Everything we’ve done since then is just a hack, a repurposing of that basic machinery, and we cannot understand anything about ourselves or our problems until we understand, accept, and embrace this reality.

The African savanna made us human—

—and that is why we must save the few scraps that remain.

The Serengeti, The Maasai Mara, and The Great Migration

The Serengeti is in Tanzania, and the Maasai Mara is in Kenya. These are human political divisions: for the millions of wildebeest that live there, they are stops on the Great Migration.

Wildebeest are grazing antelope that run in huge herds, their numbers inconceivable to anyone who hasn’t seen them. They migrate because they follow the short and the long rains, the seasonal precipitation that brings life to the African plains.

It is the last great migration, the last unfragmented savanna ecosystem, the last place that speaks to our blood and bones: This is where we came from. This land of thorny trees and baking sun and torrential rain, this land of fearsome predators and dangerous prey, of blood and fear and grass and sunlight and everything else that made us human.

And the Tanzanian government will destroy it—unless we stop them.

The Trans-Serengeti Highway

Those words mean exactly what you think they mean: a major road for truck transport, running straight across the Serengeti.

The Tanzanian government claims “it only goes across a little bit of the north part.” What they won’t tell you is: that’s the part that connects to the Maasai Mara. The highway will cut the Great Migration in half, straight across the middle.

The proposed road (red) would cut off the wildebeests' wet-season range (in the south) from their dry-season range (in the north). The proposed southern route (in purple) bypasses the park and connects to already-existing roads.

Hundreds of trucks a day, straight through the center of the largest wildlife refuge in Africa.

No migratory path survives a major road. Banff National Park in Canada has been greatly degraded by the Trans-Canada Highway, and its wildlife lives at a fraction of the density of the Great Migration. Hundreds of thousands of wildebeest will die because they can no longer follow the rains—and so will the animals that depend on them. And poachers will have a highway straight through the center of the richest ecosystem in Tanzania.

This is not hyperbole. The Serengeti will no longer qualify as a World Heritage Site if the highway is built, and tourism revenue will collapse along with the migration. Yet the president of Tanzania, Jakaya Kikwete, insists that the highway must be built, it will be built, and nothing can stop him from building it. They have already placed the survey markers, and plan to start construction in 2012.

“The proposed road could lead to the collapse of the largest remaining migratory system on Earth – a system that drives Tanzania’s tourism trade and supports thousands of people,” conclude the authors. [From a report published in the journal Nature] –“Serengeti wildebeest spectacle under threat from development”, The Guardian

“Calculations from the Frankfurt Zoological Society suggest if the wildebeest population were cut off from dry season areas, it would shrink to less than a quarter of its current size. This would likely be the end of the great migration.

Learn more here and here.

This is a tiny fraction of what we will lose. (Pictures from this photo gallery.)



So why would the Tanzanian government sacrifice $1.5 billion dollars in tourism revenue for far less mining revenue?

Most likely because much of the tourism revenue goes to the people of Tanzania—while mining concessions go straight into the pockets of government officials.

An Open Letter To The People of Tanzania

Your founder, Mwalimu Julius Kambarage Nyerere, gave you a great gift by preserving the Serengeti. Over a billion US dollars comes to your country every yearclutched in the hands of people from all over the world who work for months or years just so they can see, for a week or two, what you have so wisely preserved.

Each year the world becomes faster and noisier, each year cities grow larger and more crowded—and each year your founder’s gift to you grows more valuable.

You are told by your leaders that the Serengeti highway is for you, for medicine and doctors and trade between villages. Yet your leaders refuse the southern route—the road that would connect so many more of your villages and bring more of you these things. They refuse it even though Germany and the World Bank have offered to help you build the southern route, and to build roads to the villages on the northern route. This is truth.

They refuse it because the road is not for you. It is for them.

The road is for big foreign companies who will come to Tanzania. They will mine soda ash from Lake Natron. They will mine uranium and rare earth minerals from around Lake Victoria. These companies will pay your leaders many millions of dollars for this. A few of you will get dirty, dangerous mining jobs for very little money, for however long the mines last…

…and the road will destroy the tourism industry that gives you over a billion US dollars a year, and 1 of every 16 jobs in your country, simply for keeping the gift of your founder safe.

They tell you it will only cross the north of the Serengeti—but that is where it connects to the Maasai Mara in Kenya. The wildebeest must follow the rains or they will die. And if they cannot, if there is no longer a Great Migration, then the tourists will not come either.

Then someday the mining companies will leave, having taken all they wanted from your country, and most likely leaving poison and destruction behind as they have in the Niger Delta. Your leaders will be rich—but all of you will be poor, even poorer than before, because you will not have your land or your jobs or the tourists or the Serengeti.

“”We lost our nets, huts and fishing pots,” said Chief Promise, village leader of Otuegwe and our guide. “This is where we fished and farmed. We have lost our forest.”
“There are more than 300 spills, major and minor, a year,” said Bassey. “It happens all the year round. The whole environment is devastated.” –“Nigeria’s agony dwarfs the Gulf oil spill”, The Guardian

“I can say this,” Osuoka said firmly. “Nigeria was a much better place without oil.” –“Curse of the Black Gold”, National Geographic

This is an old, old story. It has happened many times before, everywhere from the banana republics of Central America to the rape of what is now the DRC by the Belgians—and it will happen again. It is happening right now to us, yes, even to the ‘rich’ people in the United States. Big corporations push whole mountains into the river in order to get the coal out. Others pump poison into the ground in order to force out natural gas. It’s called ‘fracking’. In some places you can light the water on fire with a match.

We are not better than you. We have seen and lived this story before, and we hope you can learn from our mistakes. The few places we have preserved—from the majesty of Yellowstone and Yosemite and Canyonlands, which people come from all over the world to see, down to the smallest city park—give us so much more than the places we’ve sacrificed in the name of ‘progress’. They grow more valuable every year.

And they are nothing compared to the Serengeti.

Connect your land and your villages with the southern route. If there must be mining and development, let it benefit you, the people of Tanzania…not just its leaders. But do not let your leaders squander the great gift your founder gave you: by enriching themselves they will only make you poorer.

Save yourselves. Save the Serengeti.

Stop the northern route, and tell them the southern route must be built instead.

Live in freedom, live in beauty.

J. Stanton

PS: I am not alone in this. Here is a letter from one of your countrymen. And in case you do not believe me when I say that mining is not the route to prosperity:

NATURAL RESOURCE ABUNDANCE AND ECONOMIC GROWTH
Jeffrey D. Sachs and Andrew M. Warner
Center for International Development and Harvard Institute for International Development

“Economies with a high ratio of natural resource exports to GDP in 1970 (the base year) tended to grow slowly during the subsequent 20-year period 1970-1990. This negative relationship holds true even after controlling for many variables found to be important for economic growth by previous authors.”

In other words: the more money you get from mining and the less you get from tourism, the less Tanzania will grow. Tourism brings the wealth of the world into Tanzania: mining digs up Tanzania’s wealth and sends it away.

What You Can Do If You’re Not Tanzanian

  • Join the “Stop The Serengeti Highway” Facebook page to keep up with the latest developments and online petitions.
  • Join the Serengeti Watch mailing list.
  • Write an actual paper letter to the Tanzanian government. Emails are generally ignored. Here is a sample letter, and a list of embassy addresses so you don’t have to air-mail it to Tanzania.
  • UPDATE 6/2012: We raised $400 for the WCST through our fundraiser below, and we thank all of our generous donors for their participation. A full accounting can be found here. Our fight continues: though the road has still not been built (construction was originally schedule to begin in January 2012), the Tanzanian government still claims it must be built. At this time, those interested in helping should donate to Serengeti Watch’s Legal Defense Fund.
        My publisher and I are giving to the Wildlife Conservation Society of Tanzania for every copy of The Gnoll Credo you buy directly from them. We are matching small donations and giving away books for larger donations—and all copies are signed.
        Your money goes directly to Tanzanians working to preserve Tanzania, and your money goes a long way in Tanzanian shillings. Go to 100 Watt Press to learn more, and to help.
  • Or donate to Serengeti Watch’s Legal Defense Fund, if you like. This isn’t about my novel, it’s about saving the Serengeti.
  • Publicize this effort on your own website, send this article to your friends, post it on your favorite message boards. (You can share it on Facebook, reddit, StumbleUpon, etc. with the buttons below…and here’s the shortlink.)
        I know many other paleo bloggers read my articles: you can link here, or to Serengeti Watch, or the Facebook page, or wherever makes sense to you. But please help get the word out, because the place from where we get all the beautiful photos in our banners—the place that made us human—will be destroyed forever if we do nothing.

Live in freedom, live in beauty.

JS

My Interview On Angelo Coppola’s “Latest In Paleo” Podcast Is Available Now

Angelo Coppola, of the excellent weekly “Latest In Paleo” podcast, has just put up Episode 12 of his podcast, featuring…me!

Click here for the show! There are links to listen in Itunes and your browser, and to download it.

It starts with a long interview about my novel The Gnoll Credo (which both he and his family greatly enjoyed), covering everything from the history of the novel’s world to why spotted hyenas are awesome—and segues into us having a great time discussing this week’s news and some important issues facing the paleo community.

Here’s the link to my publisher I mentioned on the show, through which you can get a signed copy of The Gnoll Credo—and simultaneously make a contribution to saving the Serengeti through the Wildlife Conservation Society of Tanzania.

Thanks again, Angelo, for having me on the show!

JS

(Links: Latest In Paleo Episode 12, “Die Biting The Throat”.)

The Best Gravlax Recipe On The Internet: Now In English And Metric Units!

Gravlax is a traditional Nordic dish of raw salmon cured with salt, sugar, and dill. Step by step directions, with pictures: read on!

It’s absolutely delicious when made well.
It impresses guests and significant others, because it’s exotic.
It’s dead easy to make, even if you’re a kitchen klutz…

…and nearly every recipe I’ve found on the Internet is wrong. Most of them produce gravlax that is either raw in the middle, hard and crusty on the outside, or tastes like a Styrofoam salt lick—which is a tragedy, because properly made gravlax is so delicious that I’ve eaten over a pound and a half at a single sitting! And the others make you go to a lot of extra work.

It’s taken several expensive experiments to get this recipe correct—and now I bring it to you.

Gravlax, Gravad Lax, Gravet Laks, Gravlaks, Graflax, Graavilohi, Graavilõhe

Gravlax (also known as gravad lax, gravet laks, gravlaks, graflax, graavilohi, or graavilõhe, depending on which Nordic country you’re from) was traditionally made by salting salmon and burying it in a hole dug at the ocean’s edge, just above the high tide line. Today we will improve on that technique by using refrigeration and fresh herbs.

Why This Gravlax Recipe Is The Best

First, I’ve stripped the process down to the essentials, skipping steps that don’t matter and streamlining the rest.

More importantly, though, most gravlax recipes add far too much salt—and then depend on ending the cure at exactly the right time. Too early, and the salmon is still mushy. Too late, and the surface is hard and salt-burned…and the outside always seems to end up harder than the inside no matter what you do.

In this recipe, however, you’ll use the correct amount of salt and sugar to cure the fish, and no more. Not only will it taste better, you won’t have to worry about timing!

(Note: if you’re willing to do the extra work and want the strictly traditional dish, here’s how. And if you disagree that this recipe is the best, feel free to leave a comment!)

Ingredients and Supplies You Will Need

Ingredients!

  • 1.7 pounds (800 grams) of salmon filet, skin on. Do not get steaks! If you’re not doing an entire side at once like I do, get two smaller filets that are the same size. However much salmon you get, adjust quantities of salt, sugar, and lime appropriately, as per the table below. I find the recipe works better the more I fix at once: I’ve done two entire filets before, which was almost seven pounds!
  • 3 tablespoons (45 ml) white sugar.
  • 1 tablespoon (15 ml) salt. Sea salt is preferred, but whatever you use should be finely ground. (Do not use kosher salt, as the recipe will end up under-salted!)
  • 1 oz. (28 grams) fresh dill. This is absolutely necessary. Don’t try to use dried dill. Trust me on this.
  • 3 very thin lime slices. The secret ingredient! Don’t try to use lime juice: I’ll explain why later.

No, this recipe isn’t ‘paleo’ due to the white sugar…but please, please don’t try to use honey (or, Gods forbid, stevia) as the dry granulated sugar is necessary for the salmon to cure properly. Besides, there’s less sugar in the entire recipe than there is in a single 12-ounce can of Coke…and I’d rather have lots of healthy raw omega-3s plus a bit of fructose than hideous fake ‘bread’ made out of omega-6 laden nuts. Plus, this will give you an excuse to ask your hot neighbor “Hey, can I borrow a quarter cup of sugar?”

If you’re trying to avoid fructose entirely, you can use dextrose instead, although it won’t taste quite as good. UPDATE! If you’re zero-carb or VLC, commenter Johnnyv has successfully made a batch using xylitol. I haven’t tried it myself, but if you’re interested, click here to see how he did it. If you’re doing Whole 30, I don’t know what to tell you. Sorry about that.

Conversion Table

If you’re in between, average it out. The amount of dill isn’t critical: just cover the filets like you’ll see in the pictures below.
1 tablespoon = 3 teaspoons = ~45 ml.

Weight of Salmon Salt Sugar Lime
3.4 pounds (1.55 kg) 2 tablespoons (30 ml) 6 tablespoons (90 ml) 6 slices
2.8 pounds (1.3 kg) 5 teaspoons (25 ml) 5 tablespoons (75 ml) 5 slices
2.25 pounds (1 kg) 4 teaspoons (20 ml) 4 tablespoons (60 ml) 4 slices
1.7 pounds (800g) 1 tablespoon (15 ml) 3 tablespoons (45 ml) 3 slices
1.1 pounds (500g) 2 teaspoons (10 ml) 2 tablespoons (30 ml) 2 slices
0.6 pounds (270g) 1 teaspoon (5 ml) 1 tablespoon (15 ml) 1 slice

You will also need:

  • Plenty of plastic cling wrap
  • A plate large enough to hold the salmon. If it came in a plastic tray, rinse it and use that.
  • Measuring spoons. Don’t fake this: it is very important to get the proportions right.
  • Paper towels.
  • A cutting board.
  • A sharp knife.

Gravlax: Step By Step Directions, With Pictures!




Step 1: Unwrap the filet, rinse it gently, and pat it mostly dry with a paper towel.

Step 2: If there’s a very thin part on one side (this is the belly), trim it off. Save it and eat it later, as it’s delicious!

Salmon filet, trimmed in preparation for making gravlax

Try to trim the filet so the two ends are nearly symmetrical. You'll see why later.

Step 3: If you bought a single filet, cut it in half as precisely as you can.

Gravlax ingredients, ready for recipe

As if using white sugar wasn't evil enough, I bought it at Wal-Mart. Then I ate a baby.

Step 4: Place a layer of plastic wrap on top of the plate (or the plastic tray, if you saved it) that you’ll be curing the gravlax on. Then put the salmon filets on the tray. If you skip this step, you will make a big mess.
Step 5: Shake the salt and sugar over the thick parts of the filet. Don’t try to go all the way to the edge: it’ll soak through as it cures. Use more salt and sugar on the thick end of the filets, and less on the thin end.

Gravlax in progress: salmon filet + salt and sugar

Just shake the salt and sugar right out of the measuring spoons.

Step 6: Mince the dill. Most recipes tell you to leave it whole, but you can use a lot less if you mince it—and I think gravlax tastes better with a few dill bits left on it.
Step 7: Distribute the dill over the filets.

Gravlax in progress, topped with dill

Looks festive, doesn't it?

Step 8: Cut three thin lime slices. Dice the slices and put them on top of only one of the two filets. (You’ll understand why in a moment.) Use slightly less lime than I used in the picture: this is a bit too much. It is important that the lime bits don’t touch the fish, or they’ll make little white acid burns. This is why you can’t use lime juice.

Gravlax in progress: all toppings

Strictly speaking, the lime isn't traditional...but it tastes much better.


Do you have a zester? If so, instead of dicing lime slices, I recommend that you zest about half a lime and mix the zest in with the dill. Then you don’t have to move the dill back and forth or carefully distribute pieces of lime: you can simply pile the mixture all on one filet and skip to step 10. (Thanks to commenter Gail for the tip.)

If the table calls for 3 lime slices, zest about 1/2 lime. 6 lime slices = zest an entire lime. In between? Average it out.

If you don’t have a zester, or don’t know what a zester is, don’t worry…this is just a time-saver for people with lots of kitchen gadgets.

Step 9: Take the dill off of the other filet and put it on top of the filet with the limes. Remember, you need to keep the lime bits from touching the fish.

Gravlax in progress, all toppings consolidated before folding

You'll understand in a moment why I do things this way.

Step 10: Make a big salmon sandwich by putting one filet on top of the other. This is why you put most of the ingredients on one filet: if you try to tip one filet onto the other while it’s covered in dill and lime bits, you’ll make a huge mess.

Gravlax, stacked and ready to be wrapped

We're almost ready!

Step 11: Wrap the filets as tightly as you can in the layer of plastic wrap you put under them.
Step 12: Wrap the filets in at least two more layers of plastic: one around, one lengthwise. Wrap as tightly as you can: you want the filets to be touching each other at all points, with no air space. The easiest way is to lay a few big sheets of plastic wrap out on the table and roll them up.

Gravlax, wrapped and freshly cured

This photo was actually taken after curing, but it looks the same.

Step 13: Put the filets in the refrigerator. Make sure they’re on the tray or plate, because they’ll leak no matter how well you’ve wrapped them.
Step 14: Traditional recipes tell you to put a weight on top of the filets while they’re curing, and to remove and re-baste them during the cure. This isn’t necessary if you’ve wrapped them tightly…but you do need to turn them over a couple times. I flip mine morning and evening.

Step 15: This is the hardest part: wait two days. (Again, I recommend turning the package over twice a day.)

Unlike most recipes, curing time doesn’t need to be exact…it’s OK (though not perfect) after 36 hours, and I’ve left it to cure over three days and it tasted the same.

Intermission

And now, the delicious part!

Scrape the dill and lime debris off the top, and slice the gravlax as thinly as you can. For best results, slice diagonally so that you get the largest slices possible.


Gravlax, unwrapped after curing

Just slice...

If you’re feeling frisky, you can present it nicely: it’s traditional to serve gravlax with a dill and mustard sauce (non-Facebook link) on crisp bread, often topped with a squeeze of lemon, a few capers, and some white pepper. (Another delicious suggestion involves lemon zest, orange zest, and juniper berries.) But as I am a bachelor and eat a paleo diet, I usually just stand over the cutting board and pop the slices straight in my mouth.

Gravlax, sliced and plated

...and serve! This will last me approximately eighteen seconds.

It’s probably good that salmon is expensive, or I’d be eating gravlax every day!

Live in freedom, live in beauty.


  • Feel free to explore gnolls.org: the index is a great place to start.
  • If you’ve found that my recipe is indeed the best on the Internet, you can support my efforts to keep gnolls.org ad-free by buying a copy of my “Raw, powerful and brilliant,” “Insightful and surprisingly heartfelt,” “Funny, provocative, entertaining, fun, insightful,” “Totally engaging” novel, The Gnoll Credo. Buy it from Amazon.com, directly from 100 Watt Press (signed, at no extra cost), and worldwide.